Having just viewed the blog of a previous Language Corps success story, a guy who, in addition to writing a substantial, vivid & tickling blog, won himself a killer lifestyle (teaching and writing) and stunning wife in the city of Hanoi, I realize I have to step it up. So, as of now, I commit myself to writing at least every few days here on "The Free Fall, S.E. Asia".
I'll begin with tonight's festivities: joining a few friends for a surprise birthday party at a Karaoke club. I think I may have done this once before... or dreamt of it. But Asian style Karaoke involves renting something of a hotel room (couch in place of bed) for a guest of honor and a pile of friends. Then, you order drinks & food and sing your little hearts out. It's somewhat masturbatory, in the way all karaoke is, but something about getting the private room kicks it up a notch. I once had a childhood friend who confessed she routinely locked herself in the bathroom to consume a combination of mayo and butter. In this case, it was Gaga and MJ - and every now and then either an authentic Vietnamese pop song (we foreigners picked out the new words we'd learned... "how!" ..."want!"..."one!") or a legible but totally unrecognizable Euro-star hit with, say, two girls rolling around in the snow with wolves.
All said, it was a great time and thanks go out to my generous friend Chau, whom I met through the Singaporian Indian girl (self-identified during Language Corps'"name game"), Shanta, and Chau's gracious and newly 31 year old husband, Khanh. Chau and Khanh dropped me off via motorbike, and, hair flying in the wind, mouth spread in dog-out-the-window smile, I vowed myself to possess such a contraption one day. The weather here at night, I must say, is something to be revered.
Other tales and goings on for which I should account include 1. Hien and Linh, the angels of Language Corps Vietnam 2. learning Vietnamese Part 1 3. Holly and Pat, two inspiring retired divas 4. Vietnamese music scene and 5. my current dilemma: staying south or nosing north.
Hien is the organizer here. She is a petite lady, always perfectly dressed - with a smile - and always keen to don others with that same sunny disposition. She lives and breathes the job. No, I mean, she actually lives at the office. (I am also staying there this week in a converted classroom.) But, also, I mean that she loves the job because it gives her the opportunity to keep tuning her English. Which is already very good. We've had many a nice chat, albeit in English, but eventually, we'll heart to heart in Vietnamese (I hope!). Tonight, she taught me say-ow (I'm not sure yet how this is spelled; that's how it sounds.) It means motorbike driver, but, literally, "ow" -- or is it "euh"? -- means "hug," that is, in the sense that a passenger must hug the moto driver to stay safely aboard. Cute, huh. Hien received flowers last night, Valentine's Day, from a long-time friend who she can tell anything. When I sing at her wedding, I'm counting on it being in Vietnamese.
That said, as we learned from Linh, the L.C. Vietnamese teacher, because of the importance of tone in determining word meaning, song lyrics are only gleaned by the deft and anticipating ear. Context is everything in a world where "ma" can mean 5 different things depending on inflection. Linh is a sophisticated "chi" (lady not much older than me) and a good and encouraging teacher. She's constantly sending us out to inquire of people on the street about names and origins and prices for wares. It's beautifully embarrassing, as they correct our three word sentences with a rollercoaster of tones and giggle gently at our misfires. Linh has long hair that she curls nicely. The perfect teacher.
The class consists of me, Jefferson, a mid-twenties wilderness trip expert, meta-physicist and once time-insurance salesman, Nora, a law-school bound sweetheart with an aim to do good, and Holly, a middle-aged retiree uprooted from Texas, twice married and now on to live out adventures in the beloved Far East of her school-age years. I've come to appreciate richly the company of each of my fellow wanderers / aspiring teachers, and I am impressed with each of them in different ways. I am particularly uplifted by Holly's ability in late middle age to carry herself up and away into a new life. It gives me a sense of unending possibility and endless human energy, should one choose to use it.
Holly and I met her friend, Pat, the other night for a few unfortunately insipid tapas. While we should have known better than to opt for Spanish in an ocean of delicious pho, it was quite a pleasant evening and it was a pleasure to chat with Pat, an 80 year old who's in Vietnam to volunteer at an orphanage. What's the secret to staying so healthy and vivacious? #1 Keep moving. Pat volunteers at a hospital and walks nearly 2 miles, all told, each day. She's long single - and happy that way - though, grants, if Mr. Perfect were to walk into her, she wouldn't protest romance. She also reads her fair share of Vampire novels. #2 Keep fantasy alive.
On that note, thanks to my karaoke performances in S.E. Asia, Holly and others have encouraged me to pursue some singing opportunities here in Ho Chi Minh. I must say I would love to get in on the music scene. What strikes me - both as an amateur anthropologist and as an artistic opportunist - is the fact that most hip bands here seem to sing in English. Last week, a few of us toured Yoko Bar (think Brooklyn chic meets Ikea) to see one of Hien's favorite band play. The place was clearly an insider's spot and we felt privileged to be there. & The band itself was very well composed, tight, and fun. Great vocals, on point musicians. The material: all 60's - 80's American rock. I postpone greater thoughts on this for the moment. Fun? Yes, sure. Disturbing? A tad, yes.
Anyhow, I got a hand shake from the drummer and lead singer (always an impressive combination of duties) and got to thinking maybe Saigon is the place for me, rather than her northern cousin, Hanoi. My great dilemma: Lakes galore, certain beauty and another new adventure v. people I know and like, southern weather, and a flavorful night life. I've got to decide soon whether to snap up an apartment nearby or to take the trip.
But this is to put the horse before the cart. Or maybe it's to count eggs before they've hatched. Or maybe, better said, it is to sew the wedding dress before finding a love. Because, mind you, I haven't landed a job yet in either city. Off to cross fingers, stalk email and warble some more Vietnamese!
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